Malte Brun is the highest peak in the Malte Brun Range, which lies between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers within New Zealand's Southern Alps. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. The last 1/3 was quite chossy. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Mount Tasman Expedition - 3,497 metres Alpine Guides Mount Tasman guided climb is a 6 day expedition on to New Zealand's second highest peak. … The climb steepens and provides some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge is joined. On reaching the true West Ridge negotiate the Cheval and then up 200m to the summit. Descend from Mt Hamilton to a narrow rubbly notch and climb up a steep slab for 150m, then on up the ridge, which rises in a series of short steps of good rock. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. ... Nice. Easy scrambling to apex of West Ridge. The NZ climbing forum seems pretty dead. Malte Brun is located directly east of Mt Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak), separated by the mighty Tasman glacier. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. The first mountain huts were built near the Ball Glacier in 1891 and below Mt Malte Brun in 1898. Lat: -43.54864 From the Bonney Glacier climb compact rock that steepens progressively to a crux before a snowcovered ledge Access the ledge toward either the left or the right. Top of the access gully: Lat: -43.55025 Follow weakness/ crack then head left to Arete. Laurence Earle, Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Jan 1910. His second son, Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun, was also a geographer.Today he is perhaps best remembered for coining the name for the geographic region Oceania (French Océanie) around 1812. Early visitors camped near White Horse Hill (where the first Hermitage hotel opened in 1885) or at Governors Bush (where the second Hermitage opened in 1914, and the third in 1958). Conquering Cook In the Malte Brun Range there are long climbs over generaly good rock and broken glaciers, Malte Brun(3155m) being the highest peak. Malte Brun Expedition The highest peak in the Malte Brun range, and one of NZ's classic alpine rock summits. See below for route from Beetham Valley. Unregistered users can only view full size photos that have been added this month. We decided to do that one, a 2000m route from our camp. Mt Tasman is … These packages are for a set number of days. Follow the ridge on generally good rock. The routes on the western side of Mt Malte Brun provide good rock climbing and can be gained either via the Turnbull Glacier, which joins the upper Bonney Glacier, or up the Malte Brun Glacier. In 1898, the Malte Brun Hut was built beside the Tasman Glacier. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. The 6-day package gives time to fly in, high on the Tasman Glacier, before descending to your bivouac site. Altough it has the most unstable weather It's still possible to climb big peaks well into the summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun. The route was first attempted up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015, and retreat was due to lack of gear. Tasman Valley. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. Head up from obvious start to join weakness. Despite this most of the ridge is on snow and ice. This route usually commences from the Bonney Glacier just above the small icefall but there is wide scope for variations especially from below the icefall. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. Shispare N.E. Malte's warm red sandstone faces provide some of the best alpine rock mountaineering in the Mount Cook area. This can make a quick descent route, but it is a natural funnel for rock fall and avalanches. The head of the Tasman Glacier, though a serious area, is a good introduction to the Mount Cook region. Long: 170.28782 BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely. A winter and spring route involving M3 climbing. Alpine Guides' Expeditions are guided climbing packages for NZ's most notable peaks: including Aoraki Mount Cook, Mount Tasman, and Mount Aspiring. The Malte Brun is an alpine rock peak, and at 3199 metres it is one of the highest mountains in the Southern Alps. Steep and fun. Best pitch **. Climbers on the famous 'cheval' traverse of the West Ridge of Malte Brun Other routes ascend to the right of the couloir while some variations keep closer to the North Ridge. The peak was first ascended by the legendary Tom Fyfe in 1894. Continue up 12m then cross left over grey corner onto new red rib. Nice Photos. There is plenty of room for variations. According to Land Information New Zealand, it rises to a height of 3199m, although other sources give heights ranging from 3155 to 3199 m. A list published by the New Zealand Alpine Club ranks Malte Brun as the third highest mountain in New Zealand. This area was explored by Julius Haast in 1862. Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Malte Brun (3,199 m) in the Southern Alps of New Zealand Bivvy site (there are many others): The easiest route begins by cutting left from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier up one of a series of couloirs onto a small snowfield and then up a short rock face onto the ridge. The Footstool 2,764 m The glaciated peak of the Footstool towers impressively above Mount Cook Village. 2/3 of the route was on fantastic rock. The point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site: After crossing the broad expanse of the pass, descend either snow or, in late summer, rock and scree to the Beetham Valley. Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge. Ascend the Cascade Glacier up easy slopes to the pass. From the névé of the Bonney Glacier, ascend the snow and ice couloir to within l00m of the summit. Getting to the start of the climb proved quite long already: from the camp you get onto the large ridge leading to the west ridge. And range, from Plateau Hut, Mt Cook NP Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals. Alpine Guides offers a 3-day guided mountaineering package that can get you to the summit. Cheval, West Ridge of Malte Brun, Mt Cook. 15 - 20 pitches Up prominent rock rib to the right of the gully on the North face to the from the Bonney Glacier. From the Beetham Valley the best route is probably to cut across the toe of West Ridge and ascend above the old Malte Brun Hut site, regaining the ridge at a col at 2300m. First accent was done with bivy gear and the team descended down the Bonney Rib. Take … Full size version is only available to registered users Please Register as a New User or Login as Existing User to gain full access to all the photos on this site. Route photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent. Chimney moves are the crux. A guided ascent of Malte Brun (3199m), New Zealand, by Keith Scott and Jamie Robertson (guide), February 2014. Useful GPS waypoints, current in 2020 are: Fyfe’s route ascends to the left of a shallow couloir in the centre of the face. Due to insufficient data, the value of the property cannot be estimated. Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at <60m length on ascent. Dan Baker - Dec 6, 2005 4:47 pm - Voted 8/10 Untitled Comment. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. Lat: -43.55298 The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge. Not recommended as a descent. Together with Alan Silva we travelled to New Zealand in February 2012 to climb Malte Brun, New Zealand’s 6 th highest peak at 3196m. Although the climbing is not very difficult, it is still quite sustained. 11 Malte Brun Place, Papatoetoe, Auckland, 2025 is a Residential property built in 1965 with 3 bedrooms, 1 bathroom and 3 parking spaces. Conrad Malte-Brun [needs Danish and French IPA] (12 August 1775 – 14 December 1826), born Malthe Conrad Bruun, and sometimes referred to simply as Malte-Brun, was a Dano-French geographer and journalist. Alan and I attempted a route known as the Full West Ridge in 2011. Malte Brun is a fantastic alpine rock peak, standing out high on the mountain range named after it, east of the Main Divide. Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at <60m length on ascent. What route did you climb on Aspiring? Face (7611 meters) difficult First Ascent in the Karakorum by Japanese climbers Plug in .5 cam into grey roof, then step onto red prow. The rock is highly variable and in parts the ridge is quite exposed. level 2. Face (7611 m) Karakorum F/A + Malte Brun (NZ) S Face Ski + Summits in Nepal & Legends + Uluru Climbs Banned After 2019 Shispare N.E. From the lower Bonney Glacier ascend the ribs and slabs of excellent rock between the North East and North Ridges. Climbing huts were first built in the central Southern Alps by the government for guided climbers. First ascent unknown. The classic climb up Malte Brun is the west ridge, or its longer version, the full west ridge, visible on the left of the above picture. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Elev: 2036m, Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. An enjoyable alternative, however, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the col which separates the Malte Brun and Bonney Glaciers. Ant, Michael, Brendan and Rachel climb Malte Brun (3199m) in Mt Cook National Park via the West Ridge in late Jan 2016 The rock on the ridge is good and the climbing pleasantly interesting but nowhere difficult. According to Land Information New Zealand , it rises to a height of 3,199 metres (10,495 ft), [1] although other sources give heights ranging from 3155 to 3199 m. Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Mount Hamilton (2,997 m) in New Zealand The first Ball Hut was built in 1891 at the site where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in 1882. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Spring is generally the best time conditions and access wise. Rising as the highest summit in the group of peaks between the Murchison and Tasman glaciers, Malte Brun is one of the classic peaks of the Southern Alps of New Zealand. At least one of the pillars on the north side of the lower ridge has been climbed, and provides excellent climbing (crux 16). Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. The property last sold for $690,000 on 9 September 2014. At about 1,500m on Wakefield Ridge, looking north east to the Malte Brun Range At about 1,600m on Wakefield Ridge, looking north east to the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier with, from left, the Minarets, Elie De Beaumont, The Malte Brun Range, Murchison River and the Liebig Range (Nun's Veil with a … Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Registration is quick and completely free. Long:170.28311 The pass can be reached either via the lower sections of the East Ridge of the Aiguilles Rouges by dropping down a steep gut onto the Cascade Glacier or by travelling up the Murchison Glacier and climbing up the Cascade Stream, gaining the south side of the glacier. An enjoyable climb for a sunny day. Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner. 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